In Czechia (or, more formally, the Czech Republic), there is a kind of casserole called “kuba”, which is usually made with barley and meat, sometimes barley and mushrooms, then is mixed and baked.  Being from Minnesota, sometimes I am called, like a homing pigeon, to make hotdish, and this no exception, but it is, as the real chefs say, “deconstructed and elevated”. 

 

I make no secret of emulating recipes that inspire me.  Always, and each time after my many, many travels, I come back with new menu ideas inspired by the meals I’ve had, the flavors, the smells, and even the people I’ve met along the way still rattling around in my head. 

 

I’ve just returned from a February break with Tyson to Prague and Budapest.  What’s that?  You say it’s too cold?  Pish posh.  We live in paradise.  You don’t need a useless beach vacation.  Northern hemisphere winter vacations, particularly in Europe, are lovely, unhurried, and unburdened by the throngs of amateur hour tourism that I find extremely vexatious. 

 

While in Prague, we received a list of places to try out, written on a coaster, and slid over the top of the counter by a lovely young lady named Anna, a bartender at Hemingway’s cocktail lounge in center city.   She did not lead us astray.  The first of her recommendations, Výčep, a short tram ride away, served us a near-perfect dinner, and one of the lead-ins was this intensely savory mushroom kuba.  I couldn’t wait to get home and try my hand at inventing my own version.

1 tbsp butter or olive oil

3  8 oz packages mushrooms (preferably mixed wild mushrooms)

Bunch thyme, plus more for garnishing (see below)

½ white onion, sliced

1 tbsp chicken, mushroom, or vegetable base

2 tsp miso paste

1 tbsp soy sauce

Juice of 2 lemon

3 cloves garlic, minced

White wine or stock

 

½ 8 oz package pearl barley

Vegetable, chicken, or mushroom stock (optional)

1.5 oz of soft sheep (or goat) cheese, chopped into chunks

3 tbsp. sour cream

 

Plucked thyme leaves or finely chopped chives

 

Melt the butter or heat the olive oil in a large hot cast-iron skillet. Throw in the mushrooms and thyme, stalks and all, do NOT salt.  Salting messes up the cooking process for mushrooms (look it up if you are in doubt).   Cook mushrooms and thyme for about 5 minutes, stirring frequently.  Add the sliced onions and cook until the mushrooms lose their water (wait for it), and it begins to evaporate, leaving the onions and mushrooms to brown, about 10 more mins.  

 

Meanwhile, cook the barley according to the package directions, but please use stock instead of water.  It will taste so much better.  When fully cooked, stir in the cheese until melted, then stir in sour cream.   Set aside.

 

At this point, very slightly (there will be other salty elements later so use a light hand) salt the veg.  Stir in the base, miso paste and soy, stirring as they pick up color and the vegetables keep browning, adding white wine or stock to loosen if the mushrooms look dry.  You’re going for shiny here, with a rich flavor, but not saucy or soupy.  Cook, tasting until desired doneness and add lemon juice, and salt and pepper to taste.  Remove from heat.

 

Serve the barley in bowls or ramekins for a main or fancy starter (respectively), garnished with thyme leaves or thyme.