On our first day in the Galapagos, we wander through a giant tortoise sanctuary. The giant tortoises are everywhere, and our guide’s knowledge seems limitless as he describes their living, eating, and mating habits. He cautions us about the rule to never get closer than six feet from wildlife, which are tame, mostly because they have no, or almost no, predators. In the restaurant, we have the opportunity to crawl inside a giant tortoise shell—just to see what it feels like.

At Espinoza Point we observe marine iguanas, which are everywhere. As we cross a boardwalk to get to the beach, I almost step on a huge sea lion, the same color as the boardwalk, napping in the sun, who could care less about us. The dull charcoal gray female iguanas hover together in groups to keep warm, each hoping to be chosen by a male for mating. The males, much larger and more colorful, bask in the sun and occasionally engage in a short but savage squabble over mating rites. The squabble is over in seconds but can result in drawn blood. 

A two-plus mile hike up a lava rock hill reveals a breathtaking view of Tagus Cove, a deep green lagoon fed by the ocean, another volcanic creation. 

Snorkeling is a once-or-twice-daily activity. As I jump into the freezing water from the zodiac in a long-sleeved bathing suit and wetsuit, I am reminded again that I’m out of my mind! But I quickly forget my discomfort as the wildlife begins to materialize. A small shark, then a larger one. Thousands of small fish are everywhere. We see king angelfish, puffers, hogfish, a parrotfish or two, and occasionally a sea turtle. After a while, we are in a kind of cove, and the huge sea turtles are everywhere. Then the sea lions begin frolicking around us. These are very social animals who seem to love nothing more than chasing each other and spinning circles around us. They might be teasing us or flirting or showing off. Or maybe they’re just saying hello. It’s such an interesting contrast to watch them frolic, as I glide along beside a tranquil sea turtle who’s completely ignoring me. 

In leisurely preparation for an afternoon zodiac exploration, we’re all on the deck getting into our life jackets, when our guide yells ‘Orca!’ and rushes us onto the zodiac. Several zodiacs from the three other ships in the area have the same idea, and we’re all hustling to track down this magnificent beast. Occasionally, the orca comes up for a quick breath of air, and everyone rushes to get a picture. I’m one of the lucky ones. 

Back on the ship, our guide calls us to the bridge to witness crossing the equator as the captain pilots us ever closer to the crossing. It’s a thrill watching one indicator countdown to 0.000 and move from ‘N’ to ‘S,’ and we count it down like it’s New Year’s Eve.

Every day and every hour brings a new surprise. One day, a mother sea lion glides into the water, leaving her two babies behind. Like all baby animals, they’re the cutest things ever! Another day, a fur seal is happy to pose, turning this way and that. The final bow is a big yawn which I am tickled to capture on my iPhone.

Among the many creatures endemic to the Galapagos are the stunning red, blue and gold Sally Lightfoot crabs, land iguanas, and, of course, the blue foot booby.

In the middle of one night, I hear a ruckus and recognize sea lions barking. I roll over in my bed, thinking they’re just swimming past the ship. But it goes on. Finally, I grab my phone and go out to the stern deck. I’m on the main level, and only the crew’s quarters and kitchen are on the lower level. I follow the sound to the stairs leading down to the crew deck below (fortunately blocked) and shine my iPhone flashlight on three huge sea lions, stretched out and looking quite at home.  

We hike a beach that’s a sea green turtle nesting area, and our guide cautions us to keep off the low dunes where they have deposited their eggs. We see the turtle tracks in the sand, which kind of resemble dune buggy tracks. A great blue heron waits patiently at the top of a dune for the tasty eggs to hatch. A few feet offshore, a couple of turtles are mating. 

We stop to watch a Sally Lightfoot crab shedding its shell. Like lobsters, these creatures outgrow their shells as they mature and must grow new ones. The most interesting thing is the foam they exude that acts like a lubricant to help them slip out of the old shell.

Was this a trip of a lifetime? You bet! It was truly fantastic.