Welcome back wine lovers. As promised, this month’s rambling is the remainder of the two-part series about South American wine.  As I noted in April, in terms of quantity and quality of wine production as well as broad U.S. availability, it pretty much boils down to two countries: Argentina and Chile, both renowned for their wine production. Part I focused on Argentina and now, a few words about Chilean wine.

Chilean wine has an interesting history dating back to the 16th century and the arrival of Spanish conquistadors and missionaries with European vines. In spite of Chile having strong political ties to Spain, traditional French varietals (cabernet, merlot, cabernet franc) were introduced to Chile and the late 20th century saw a large influx of French immigrants who brought extensive appreciation for, and experience with, winemaking techniques. In 1995 wineries in Chile totaled twelve. Today, the country boasts approximately 1200 wineries, most located along an 800-mile coastal stretch from the Atacama region south to the Bio-Bio region with the Andes Mountain range to the east and the Pacific Ocean to the west.

From north to south in Chile, the weather changes dramatically from very hot and dry, to cooler and wet. Most premium wine production requires irrigated vineyards. Maipo Valley and Colchagua Valley are generally accepted as the best wine growing regions in the country. They are both within the larger Central Valley region. Maipo is closer to Santiago, Chile’s capital. Colchagua is known for its ideal mediterranean climate, with cool ocean breezes and meltwater from the Tinguiririca River, which contributes to the quality of its cabernet and carménère. Maipo is primarily known for its cabernets.

I will reference only three casas (wineries) with which I am quite familiar, two in Colchagua and one in Maipo. The first, in Colchagua, is Lapostolle which I referenced in the July 2025 issue of Stroll in regard to their excellent, under $25 2022 Cuvee Alexandre cabernet (95% cab and 5% Petit Verdot). They also make another very good blend (60% cab) called Apalta for less than $20 at various retailers. Including the two wines mentioned, the casa makes several other wines that perennially garner scores in the mid to high 90’s. Their best bottling is called Clos Apalta which has achieved 100-point scores for several vintages. This wine sells for about $200, if you can find it. It is comprised primarily of carménère (usually at least 48%) as well as cabernet, merlot and sometimes a small amount of Petit Verdot. The winery was founded in 1994 and the Clos Apalta bottling began that year. Now, here’s a bit of trivia. That bottling, Clos Apalta, was the brainchild of the great granddaughter, Alexandra Marnier Lapostolle and her husband Cyril de Bourne (winery owners) of the founder of Grand Marnier liquor. The winery also boasts an architectural marvel of design, encompassing a state-of-the-art, seven-level underground, gravity-fed operation.  

The second Colchagua casa is Montes.  The winery was a shared vision of four friends founded in 1988. The first vintage of Montes Alpha cabernet was shipped to the U.S. in the same year.  In 1993, the winery introduced the syrah varietal to Chile. In 1996, they released their first truly premium wine, a red blend called Montes Alpha M. In 2000 they released their first premium syrah called Folly. They went on to release a premium carménère, Purple Angel, and subsequently other premium red wines Taita, Muse and Wings. The Taita, a cabernet, is their premier bottling selling for about $250 while the Purple Angel and Folly sell for over $100. The winery produces bottlings from more than ten varietals and distributes their wines to over 100 countries. The Montes Alpha, their most popular cabernet and my introduction to the winery in the early ‘90s sells for $18 at Total Wine and the current 2021 vintage was rated 92 points by the prolific and respected pundit, James Suckling.

The first Maipo winery I’d like to introduce you to was, in 1883, the creation of the visionary Don Melchor Concha y Toro, a prominent Chilean lawyer, politician, and businessman. The company has grown leaps and bounds through the decades. They now also, secondarily, make wine in Argentina. In Chile, the winery produces several lines of super premium wines starting with their namesake bottling, Don Melchor cabernet. The current vintage, 2021, rated 99 points by James Suckling, is available at Total Wine for $126. They also produce other premium brands including The Master cabernet; Heritage, a Bordeaux blend; Terrunyo, limited production cabernet, carménère and sauvignon blanc; Gravas; and Amelia. All of their premium wines attain mid-to-high 90s scores virtually every year. There is one final premium wine of theirs worthy of mention on its own.

From the Concha y Toro website:

 "More than a hundred years ago, to prevent his wines from disappearing (being stolen), Don Melchor from Concha y Toro spread the rumor that the Devil himself lived in his cellar. Like fire, word spread, and fear took hold of everyone who heard it. Nobody, of course, ever confirmed the story about his cellar's eerie guardian. However, the Legend remains. Casillero del Diablo is the second most influential wine brand worldwide and first in Latin America.”  

The penultimate winery I’ll mention for Chile is Vina Carmen who call themselves ‘La Primera Vina de Chile’ and they may well have a point. They certainly can lay claim to numerous highly rated, high-end wines. Their most unique line of wine is called Frida Kahlo Reserva, bottled in six varietals. All six of the bottlings supposedly were inspired by and bear the self-portrait likeness of the world-famous Mexican painter. Another of their bottlings is called Maria’s Legacy single vineyard cabernet. It happens that I tried that wine just recently for the first time and was impressed by the price/value ratio. Well worth a try at $23 for the current 2022 vintage at Total Wine.

And lastly, in 1995, Robert Mondavi created Vina Seña with Eduardo Chadwick in Valle de Aconcagua as he did with Rothschild in Napa (Opus) similar to what Barons de Rothschild did in Argentina’s with Bodega CARO. Again, with the express purpose of challenging the world’s greatest red wines. Referred to as the Opus One of the Southern Hemisphere, Seña competes with First Growths and cult Napa Cabs year in and year out. The current vintage, 2021, 50% cabernet sauvignon, 27% malbec, 17% carménère and 6% petit verdot earned a 100-point score and retails for only $130 (compared with prices North of $500). 

Indeed, it’s evident that two of the illustrious entrepreneurs of the wine world scene, Rothschild and Mondavi, saw the great promise of South America.

PULL QUOTE: “Drinking good wine with good food in good company is one of life’s most civilized pleasures”  - Michael Broadbent, British Master of Wine, Author & Critic