Greetings neighbors!

My name is Steph Chichester, and I am thousands of hours into the study of wine and hold

Wine and Spirit Education Trust’s Level 4 Diploma in Wine sommelier credential. My parents,

Linda and Pat Brisnehan, are Backcountry residents and I am excited to share my knowledge,

tips, and tricks with Stroll readers here!

As the days get shorter and Colorado evenings take on a chill, shoulder season wine replaces

the porch pounders that quenched summer thirst. Chardonnay is unmatched in its versatility for

seasonal transitions but is often misunderstood. It is a neutral grape styled by the growing

season’s weather and the winemaker, ranging from crisp and lean to ripe and decadent. Light

reds deliver more flavor and heft than dainty pink rosés in sweater weather, but don’t require a

hearty meal as a companion. 

Lastly, as the first of the leaves begin to change in the high country, it

seems fitting to shine a light on the tension and finesse unique to high-altitude wines.

The Blank Canvas Wine. I contend declaring you don’t like Chardonnay is like saying you don’t

like weather, art, books or music. There are simply too many expressions of Chardonnay to rule

out the category. The Chardonnay grape is a vehicle to tell the story of the soil (chalk and

salinity of Blanc de Blancs Champagne), the climate (the crisp minerality of Chablis versus the

rich ripeness of Napa Chard), and the winemaker’s creative bent (neutral stainless vats, oak

barrels for vanilla and baking spices, a technique called MLF or “malo” for creaminess or butter).

If a heavy-handed California Chardonnay has turned you off, experiment with different white

Burgundys (they are all Chardonnay) that fit your budget, and you’re likely to find a new go-to

white.

Featherweight Reds. Light reds for the early fall are fruit-forward but assertive. They are

expressive with bright floral notes and red and black fruits, but don’t require a beef stew or filet

as their date for the evening. Examples include a well-made Nebbiolo from the Langhe (2020

and 2021 are good easy-drinking vintages), Cabernet Franc (Cabernet Sauvignon’s more

fragrant parent), or a cooler climate Pinot Noir such as one from Oregon, Carneros, or Fort

Ross Seaview.

Honoring the Harvest: Support Sustainably Produced Wines. Sustainable wine producers

adopt practices that ensure the long-term health of the vineyard and the environment generally,

and provide a living wage for their workers. Some wines carry a “sustainable” designation while

wines are labeled “organic”, “organic grapes”, and “biodynamic”. Each of these categories

designates producers committed to the health of their grapes, the soil, and their people. What

better time than harvest to celebrate this value system!

Wines with an Altitude. 

Higher elevation means cooler days and, more importantly, cooler nights. Cool nights slow down

the rate of sugar accumulation, which leads to more flavorful grapes. Sugar often beats flavor

(different trajectories) to the ripeness “finish line,” and cool evenings combat that phenomenon.

There are many amazing high-altitude vineyards/wineries right here in our fine state, such as

Stone Cottage Cellars in Paonia, Carboy Winery and Ordinary Fellow Winery in Palisade, and

Buckel Family Wine in Gunnison. As an example, Buckel makes a Pinot Noir from grapes grown

at 6,800 feet (the highest Pinot vineyard in North America) that claimed Wine Enthusiast’s 92

Point “Hidden Gem” award.

Until next time, be well and keep exploring!

Cheers,

Steph

aka Colorado Wine Woman coloradowinewoman@gmail.com